Maratheftiko day.
Almost all vitis vinifera plants are hermaphroditic or called ‘perfect flowers’ because they contain both seed-producing and receptive organs for production and fruiting. One of the fundamental biological advantages is that they do not need bees or other insects or wind to fertilise.
Some others need other species to produce fruit, as is the case with American vines, vitis riparia, which are resistant to phylloxera, or vitis labruscae.These should not to be confused with the vitis vinifera vines that make up Lambrusco, although the Lambrusco di Sorbara variety is not hermaphroditic, and Ancillotta, for example, is used to fertilise it.
Some other non-hermaphroditic varieties are, for example, Moscato Rosa, Perla dei Vivi, Querol, Cannonau Rosato, Tintora (Vernaccia) and the prestigious Picolit (Friuli).
Maratheftiko, one of the native Cypriot vines, is one of these few plants, which is why it has even risked extinction. First mentioned in 1893, in 2004 just over 100 hectares were cultivated, less than 1%. In 2012 it represented less than 2% of cultivation, and today it represents over 4%, also considering an average reduction in the total national area.
Among its physical characteristics, it is extremely resistant to disease, although it is at risk of millerandage (uneven ripening of the berries if not properly pollinated) and anthracnose, a fungal infection of the trunk, which leads to discolouration of the vessels and the death of the vines.
Organoleptically, wines produced with this grape variety have a bright dark red colour and typical aromas of violets, red fruits, wild berries, flowers and autumn fruits, sweet spices and chocolate. They are velvety and soft on the palate and adaptable to different white (rosé) and red vinification methods and different ageing methods, from inert (steel, concrete, etc.) to wood for varying lengths of time.
I believe it has incredible potential for longevity.
But the characteristic that I consider extremely peculiar is that in order to try it in its many different forms, you have to go to Cyprus.
Major celebrations take place once a year, on birthdays, New Year’s Day, National Women’s Day, National Day, Labour Day, Ohi Day, Jule, Bachanalia or No Pants Day, and 1 December is officially Maratheftiko Day.
I had the pleasure of attending the official celebration organized by OenoArt a very active group of wine lovers coordinated by Pantelis Ioannou, with the support of Michalis Georgiou Oenognosia, which was held in Nicosia at the ρούσ restaurant.
Nineteen wines were presented, along with a final surprise. Five rosés and 14 reds, all still and dry, ranging from 13 to 16 degrees, from the 2024 to 2019 vintages.
The atmosphere was festive, with ladies in evening gowns and gentlemen in high spirits, with the presence of Georgios Kassianos, president of the Cyprus Sommelier Association
, international participation, and diplomatic representatives.
During the evening, 13 different courses were served, some of which can be seen in the photo.
The event began with the presentation of the bottles for free tasting so that guests could begin to recognise and memorise the characteristics of each individual bottle. The rest of the evening unfolded in an interesting way, as all 19 bottles remained available throughout the dinner so that each guest could try to create their own pairing by simply pouring themselves a glass.
It was the pairings between these courses and the wines that created the magic. Maratheftiko is a grape variety whose vinification results in very different aromas and flavours depending on the production method. Production in steel or concrete enhances the characteristics of the grape, while production in wood adds a different maturation of these organoleptic elements.
The result is that these wines were all significantly different from each other. Each one represented its own character in a unique way; each one had both the affinities derived from the same grape variety and the enormous differences represented by the production characteristics decided by the winemakers, some of whom were present at the evening. In conclusion, presented by a mad genius of local wines, Savvas Dafermou, a sweet Maratheftiko that kept the guests until the last drop.
Next year, on 1st December, it will once again be the day to celebrate this very special grape variety, not only in Nicosia, but also in other locations in Cyprus and, we hope, incr
easingly in other countries where Cyprus is wonderfully represented, and in other restaurants or among lovers of curiosities and wine, where the amazing magic of Cypriot wines is not yet fully known.
Happy birthday, Maratheftiko.
Below are the wines of the evening and a few brief notes on their distinctive features or peculiarities compared to common aromas: (in order of Vintage. Producer name, wine name if different from “Marateftiko”and % alcohol content)
>Rosé:
Vasilikon, Einalia 2024 12% Hints of fern, mixed spring bouquet, floral, full-bodied throughout the meal.
Tsangerides, 2024 12% Intense colour, long aromas
Aes Ambelis, Nymfes, 2024 12.5% Apricot, cucumber, rose, bitter citrus peel.
Ktima Gerolemou 2024 13% salmon colour, intense aromas. Undergrowth leaves, raspberry, medlar, apricot jelly.
Tsiakkas Rodinos 2024 13.5% light cherry colour, aromas of tulip, hyacinth, red rose, goji berries.
>Red:
Vasilikon 2021 13%. Young and with an overwhelming freshness, low alcohol content. Dried raspberries, mushrooms. Perfectly in line with current consumer trends.
Kyperounta 2024 13% Bright red tending towards purple. Ripe red fruits, fresh fruit, pomelo, blood orange, gentian.
Makarountas 2023 13%. Chestnut (tree, wood), brambles, coffee with milk, halbbitter chocolate, persistent tannins, fresh.
Tsangarides 2024 13.5%. Intense ruby red. Mineral, lavender, bursting with fruit, blackberries, aubergine parmigiana, johannisbeeren.
Aes Ambelis 2021 13.5%. Autumn, wet forest, alcoholic, black cherry, bitter orange, to accompany meat sauces.
Ezousa 2021 14%. Pale colour. Round, complete, captivating, fresh. Grenadine, pomegranate, vegetable, cedar, pink grapefruit.
Nelion 2021 14%. Clear and bright colour. Mulberries, juniper, balsamic, vine leaves, blackberry jam. Delicate tannins with a tendency towards acidity.
Kolios Saint Fotios 2021 14.5%. Softly alcoholic. Hay, saddle, sweat, minestrone, Hokkaido pumpkin, milk chocolate.
Keo 2021 16%. Sour, unripe, smoke, pleasantly sulphurous, rain on leaves, mulberry leaves.
Ktima Gerolemou Red 2020 14%. Tending towards purple. Dried fruit, buttered carrots, red leather, wet earth, plum purée. Pair with Venetian-style liver.
Papaioannou 2020 14.5% light colour. Leather, aniseed, Lebkuchen, ginger bread ripe cherry, terracotta.
Oenou Yi (mi M Greek alphabet) 2020 15%. Young, fresh, dynamic and fruity on the palate, charcoal, to be paired with hare stew.
Kalamos 2019 13%. Light ruby, full-bodied, refined, forest leaves, the wine of the evening with the most intense tannins, bitter citrus, pink apple, plum jam.
Oenou Yi Grand Reserve 2019 15% Intense Bordeaux colour. Alcoholic, intense, deep, cavernous tannic hints of cellar, brine.
>Sweet:
Dafermou Sweet (no label) 15% from sun-dried grapes. 160g/L sugar, 8 acidity, a harmonious balance that leaves long and deep aromas of fresh fruit without making you think of sweetness. Fresh fruit, young cherry, black cherry liqueur praline, black cherries in alcohol, extremely consistent nose and taste, to be consumed cold.
